You know you have adapted when you watch 2 men get on the bus carrying machetes and you don’t think twice about it. Speaking about the bus, I know how much I have grown and changed since arriving because I got through the whole mountain range before I realized I had not had one fearful moment. In fact I had been more relaxed on my return journey yesterday afternoon, than I could have imagined – it was as though I had been sitting by the river rather than riding the bus through the mountains. It was wonderful to appreciate how much I was enjoying the scenery pass by me, rather than imagining what might happen. I have always been struck by the beauty of this country, but today it seemed well beyond beautiful, it has captivated me completely.

I have to ask you; what do you feel as you drive from point A to point B? While living in Canada I was often very appreciative of the beautiful landscape, especially with the amazing sunrises and sunsets on the prairies. My drive to the Cypress Hills Resort for work was always a pleasurable experience, every day seemed to paint a different canvas. But something I have realized from living here for over a year now, I never once felt as though I belonged in Canada. More a feeling of being a visitor than a resident, something I should be feeling here. But it is the opposite. There are times as I walk or take the bus when I feel part of this land, as if it is in my soul. There have been many times too, when I feel the connection through my father, as if his love for this land is also embedded into my soul. Truly it is a wonderful feeling to actually feel as though I belong, to be home. Perhaps this is not the actual country of my birth, but my body, my mind remembers the familiar landscape.

I suppose it is for this reason, I have been making known the issues of South America and the effects on the people, the land. Many times I have caught myself singing the words of the song embedded below; “When will we ever learn….” when I consider what is happening today.

A few weeks ago, I had the pleasure of visiting with Maria, first on the Sunday Market day here in Apuela, then at their new home the following day. It had been quite some time since I saw them, the day Chiripa was hit by the truck, actually, so I was very glad they got in touch with me. I discovered they had actually moved from the home I visited them at that day just before the strike. I had not found this out because they are now without wifi, so communication has become difficult.

Abel had broken his wrist playing football at school, so Javier was in Otavalo with Abel for his doctor appointment. While there he sent me a message to let me know Maria was in Apuela at the market. I got ready quickly to go meet her – she is still unwilling to come here and face Nathaly. The issues between them have not been resolved, the tensions great. So off I went, meeting her at the town square where the market is held. We hugged each other, both of us so glad to finally be able to share our news. Actually, I did not really have much to tell, but there had been many changes in her life, so we went to lunch and talked through the translator.

We enjoyed our shrimp dinner, while the dogs waited outside……well, not really outside, as they felt they should be allowed to join us at the table. Scott, since my long absence from home during the strike, has decided to follow me when I go to town. I suppose he feels I may not return, so there are now 4 dogs accompanying me on my walks, something that can be a bit frustrating. Scott and Scrappy egg each other on when a fast moving vehicle goes by, chasing after them. Scott looks over at Scrappy as if to say “let’s do it”, and starts the chase. Their ears do not work in these moments, although I do continue to try and stop them. If they are close and I hear the vehicle , I grab them by the scruff of the neck and hold them until the vehicle is safely on its way. Scrappy on his own is beginning to understand, but Scott so far is pretty hopeless…

Maria had wanted me to go back home with her, which is now near Santa Rosa, but it was complicated having Mali. We had to take the bus back and most likely the driver would not allow Mali on board. I did take her back to my cabiña, but had to lock her in, or she would follow me, which of course would defeat the purpose. But when I got back Maria realized my time spent at her home would be very short based on the return bus schedule. So we parted, with my promise to be on the early bus the next morning. It was obvious how proud she was to share her new life with me, and I felt honoured.

For reasons I still cannot explain, I was very uncomfortable leaving that morning. Actually, I have begun to feel an energy here in the valley, which is separate from me. At first it occurred to me it was due to my unfortunate experience with Kayanna and Louis, that it was my fear of running into them, but this morning that did not make much sense as I was leaving far too early for that to be a problem. However, I began to see a pattern regarding this sense of foreboding. I feel so much love for this place, so I know it is not my discomfort, it is an outside energy which would be more understood in the weeks to come. What affected me both Sunday and the following Monday as I went to meet Maria, was how many times I tripped over my own 2 feet. After about the 10th time, I realized paying attention to what was happening was important, this tripping was not normal. Today, I wonder if there were certain people in the valley on those days connected to a situation more evident today. In any case, as I boarded the bus Monday morning, I saw a familiar face, confirming there was something afoot….

At Santa Rosa, I got off the bus too soon, the location I was to meet Javier much further that I realized. I began to walk, but when I saw a man walking towards me as he took his children to school, I stopped him to learn how much further I needed to go. He was so friendly, his children all smiles as they stared at me during my conversation with their father. He explained I had about 1 or 2 km more which normally would not be a problem, but I was afraid Javier would think I had missed my bus. But as we were talking, voila – another bus came up the road, so I flagged it down and they got me to my meeting spot. As it turned out Javier was late, so I could have walked, but still, it felt better to be the one waiting rather than the other way around.

I went with him on his motorcycle down the mountain road, which seemed a very long way. In fact it was about a 20 minute ride over some very rough muddy roads. There had been quite a bit of rain over the last weeks and the potholes were filled with water. The ruts from the vehicles, combined with the water running down the mountain onto the roads get pretty bad over the length of the rainy season, Javier is a very considerate driver, so I was not worried about mishap, there was just nowhere for my left foot to rest, so it was a struggle to hold my leg up, not let it hit the road causing trouble. The area is incredible, part of the environmental reserve. I did not see much sign of dwellings, so either there were not many “fincas” or the farms were well hidden from the road.

Javier had warned me their home was humble, concerned I suppose someone from North America would have difficulty accepting this. But I explained I was more comfortable with humble, not to worry about me. If they were happy, that was all I was concerned about. He said their home was full of love, so for me what their home looked like was of no significance to me. It was indeed very humble, dirt floors, homemade furniture and cupboards combined with the furniture they brought with them. I recognized the chickens, ducks and of course Scooby, who seemed also to recognize me, coming to me right away. There was another dog who they named “Mali-to” in honour of Señorita Mali!! How cool is that? You know you’re loved when…… Malito had a terrible shoulder injury which I did my best to aid in the healing of. He was very afraid of me when I first arrived, but after I spent a little time with him, he would not let me far from his presence, laying on my feet, resting his head on my lap. As I held him, I understood his fearful barking when anyone came near, as his injury would have made him quite vulnerable. He is a beautiful dog. I noticed they feed their animals very well, they are healthy and happy, a sign of their owners new comfort.

We had breakfast shortly after I arrived, more than I eat for the day, most of the time, Maria proudly placing the meal before us. After seeing how they struggled while living here, I understood having enough to eat, as they now do, is a symbol of a wealthy home, though the walls defining it may not project that. Javier and his farm hand (or maybe he is the owner of this property, I do not know), went off to work the land. They are on a grenadilla plantation with I think she said 1,000 trees (it has been a month since the visit, so not sure if I remember correctly the number). She had brought with her to the market about 20 of these oranges for me the previous day. They are really just a jumble of seeds inside, but very delicious.

Maria, as always the most gracious hostess, would not allow me to do anything, although I tried, so I sat with the dogs, admired the beautiful surroundings and relaxed. I went with Maria to feed the pig and the chickens, and watched while she tied 2 of the hens to a post. She explained this is so they can get the eggs, because these chickens are truly free range, wandering wherever they like. These 2 must have had a habit of hiding their eggs, thus the string. And indeed it was true – the moment she let them off the rope, they went off to the most difficult places to potentially lay their eggs. The one went up the vertical bank just below the ledge above, resting in a small dip in the bank. There was nothing to climb on to get to her and coming down seemed impossible as well. Abel, Maria and I made quite the comedy act as we tried to get her down; the chicken seemed content in her knowing our difficulty reaching her. Don’t you sometimes feel Animals are laughing at us? In any case she had chose her spot well. In the end Maria bravely climbed down through the brambles, while I shook my head and held my breath. I am sorry I did not get a picture, I was too busy worrying Maria would get hurt to think of it. So back they went to the post where they were tied up, once we caught them. They were perfectly content to let me pick them up, no struggle, which allowed me to admire their beautiful feathers. Not growing up on a farm, this day was a treat for me. Maria works hard, but it is so completely obvious she loves her life here.

My only concern on this day, and it is a rather big one, is seeing Javier and the other man walk off with their backpacks full of chemicals they would spray on the ground under the fruit trees. They assured me the chemicals were not harmful, but seeing the dead plants under the trees, I could not feel good about what they were doing. I also could not say anything knowing they had found a life that worked for them at last. Watching them, spending time with them, I was reminded of my life with Patrick as we went from location to location trying to find a place we could call home. In the end when we found the place, we could not repair the damage caused from such a lifestyle, going our separate ways. What I saw in this family was different, and rather than express my fears, I admired them for their resilience and determination. They are happy….. I realize in order to change this dependancy on chemical spraying, we must provide solutions allowing better choices. This is not as easy as it sounds for the poor of this country and others like it. Choices are easier for those with means, and the companies selling these products, to their everlasting shame, make the dependency on them easy for those who struggle.

I decided to go for a walk and Scooby joined me as I strolled down the quiet country road. It was such a beautiful warm day, so a pleasure to take this opportunity to explore. Maria was busy making lunch, something I was having trouble imagining I would be able to eat after such a big breakfast, and she refused to allow my offers to help. So off I went, understanding as I did so, why this family was so happy here. This is a perfect place for them, so suited to who they are. When I asked Abel if he was happy, he smiled and said yes. I said “you have everything you need here”. To that he gave me his crooked little smirk and said “no internet”. Of course I could understand how anyone would miss wifi today, but hopefully they will have it soon. It is not as easy to get here in the Andes, so it may take time. I also will be happy when they have internet, so we can keep in better contact.

We did indeed have a lovely lunch and then Maria went off with the men with a backpack of chemicals. I had to leave soon to catch my bus, but spent some time with Abel, which I enjoyed – he is a wonderful young man. Javier had hoped to borrow the neighbors car to take me back to Apuela, we would all go if that was to be. But alas, this did not work out. One minute I was having a conversation with Abel, the next I was grabbing my things together in order to quickly catch a ride to the highway. Another way you know you have adapted is when you can leave on a seconds notice by whatever means available. In this case I was getting on the back of a motorcycle, my driver a young man I had never met. Maria raced back from the field to say good-by as I hurried to leave. As she hugged me I had the most amazing thing happen, something I cannot explain, but know it was a blessing of sorts. On my forehead I felt small but strong wings (like that of one of the big butterflies here) touch my skin. Instinctively I reached up to brush away what I thought must be an insect, to find there was nothing there, even though I could still feel the wingbeats. I was able to contemplate the meaning as I sat waiting for the bus, my motorcycle ride leaving me where I started that day at the football stadium. The young man continued on his way towards Otavalo. Living here has taught me you must be ready for anything, which can and will happen on short notice. One must feel the adventure in order to appreciate how wonderful it really is, this way of life I could not comprehend I had the ability to enjoy so much, if at all.

A wonderful thing happened as I got on the bus, as i found my friend David sitting near the back. It was nice to have company, someone who speaks English for the short ride home. Getting off the bus he offered me a ride home from Apuela on his quad, which he leaves in town while he is gone, saving me the walk. We had a lovely visit at my place after as he stayed for tea. So all in all, it was really quite a perfect day, the uncertainty of the morning brushed aside – the wings on my forehead still felt in my mind as I said my thanks for this particular day.

During the past few weeks there has been much talk regarding the possibility of mining here in our valley. This has led me to searching for information about protests, etc. With the changes in government in several countries of late, there has been a feeling of great change. I wonder that Ecuador, maybe all of South America is at the end of a cycle. It is difficult to imagine any of the beauty I am surrounded by, not being here, destroyed by mines, or spraying, but I know it is too much of a possibility, I can feel it. I came across the article below and felt it important to share it wit you. There is resistance to these companies, but they enter without permission from those it affects the most, often it is too late for them to do anything about it. With the chemicals, the damage can take one persons (maybe more) lifetime to correct, so we must be more conscious of which companies we support, we can make a difference if we say no, vote with our feet.

I am not sure when this article was written, but I think it was fairly recent – there was no date on it that I could see. I felt it was important to share because when we are so far removed from the situation, we cannot understand the devastating affects. In order to make conscientious decisions, first we must be aware of the truth of any given situation. Forgive me, but I do not feel we will get the truth from those who stand to gain the most monetarily. History has proven we must dig deeper…..

ECUADOR: PROTESTERS MOBILIZE AROUND PLAN COLOMBIA CONTAMINATION 

Over 100 indigenous people and campesinos assembled on September 24 and 25 outside the Ecuadorian Foreign Ministry in Quito to protest anti-coca crop fumigation near the northern border of Educador in Colombia. The protesters claim that spraying glyphosate, also known as “Round-Up,” as part of Plan Colombia currently affects border communities in Ecuador located as few as ten kilometers from fumigation sites. Protestors sprayed glyphosate on plants outside the ministry and showed reporters lesions they say were caused by crop spraying. Glyphosate is a category III toxin; toxins in this category cause gastrointestinal disorders, vomiting, swelling of the lungs, pneumonia, and destruction of red blood cells, among other symptoms. 

Ecuador’s Deputy Foreign Minister Edwin Johnson told IPS that spraying stopped one year ago, and that the lesions were symptoms of “Amazonian diseases.” He said protestors are looking only to gain indemnity and that the issue had been closed. 

Paris-based International Federation of Human Rights, however, filed a brief with the Constitutional Court in Quito on September 22 regarding the crop spraying. The brief requests that the Ecuadorian State take action to protect affected indigenous and campesino communities. 

“The local population is completely neglected, without any health care, and without any possibility of leaving. The situation is deplorable,” Adolfo Maldonado, a doctor and researcher with Ecuadorian environmental group Ecological Action, told IPS. He added, “Local peoples used to turn to traditional medicines. The plants no longer help because they are contaminated too.”